Linden J. ELLIS and Jennifer L. TURNER

A group of men fishing the Shimei beaches, Wanning Xian, Hainan Island. PHOTO BY JOAN LEBOLD COHEN.
Seafood is already a staple in the Chinese diet, but domestic consumption is projected to rise 40 percent by 2020. Of China’s total seafood output, 64 percent comes from aquaculture (the farming of aquatic life), making it the only country in the world where the amount of cultivated seafood